Shelling Fun on the North Fork
By Mary Hopkins Bailey
“Shell Beach!” I said excitedly. “We must go there.” My husband and I were looking at the map as we made the ferry crossing from Greenport, New York, to Shelter Island in the Peconic Bay. We had gone to Brooklyn to visit our son who had recently relocated for work. Because we had our car, we decided to explore a bit of Long Island before making the 11-hour drive back to Tennessee. We had never been to Long Island before. Other than a vague nod to the Hamptons, we knew nothing of what to expect as we journeyed out of the city.
After doing a bit of research, we decided to explore the island’s North Fork. Only two and half hours north of Brooklyn, we were lured by the promise of quaint seaport towns, vineyards, lavender and sunflower farms, good seafood, and quiet beaches. The Long Island Wine Trail boasts more than 60 wineries, most on the North Fork, and it wasn’t long before the skyscrapers and bustle of the greater New York City area seemed a distant mirage.
Honestly, we could have been anywhere in rural, coastal America. The farmland was lush, sprawling, and bursting with produce, and beyond the vineyards lay quiet harbors dotted with sailboats. We settled on the town of Greenport after finding an inviting little refurbished motel, The Silver Sands, with cozy rooms and dreamy cottages that paid sophisticated homage to coastal vacations of the 60s. We were instantly charmed. Having been spoiled by the expansive sandy beaches of Florida’s Atlantic coast, I’m a bit of a beach snob. But finding such a picturesque getaway this close to the city seemed a bit magical to me, even if the beaches were rockier and considerably narrower.
On this particular day, we decided to explore nearby Shelter Island. Tucked neatly between the Hamptons and the North Fork in the Peconic Bay, you can only reach the island by ferry. Much of its 8,000 acres are protected wetlands, with nearly one third, in fact, owned by the Nature Conservancy. Though it’s likely a more popular spot for bird watching, we were on the hunt for shells. So after my eyes were drawn to “Shell Beach” on the map, we pushed “Start” on the GPS to see if this spot lived up to its name.
Before venturing to Shell Beach, we had already combed the beach in front of the Silver Sands. I quickly surmised that the Atlantic slipper shell (Crepidula fornicate) is an invasive species in these waters. Along with pebbles and jingle shells of all shapes and sizes, they literally blanketed the beach. Among those, however, was the occasional Peconic Bay scallop shell (Argopecten irradians), common to Long Islanders, but a treat for me to scoop up. It’s hard to believe that these plentiful scallops were once an endangered species in these waters, but in 1985, a brown algae outbreak decimated the population. In 2006, alongside Cornell Cooperative Extension, Long Island University significantly contributed to restoration efforts started by the East Hampton Town Shellfish Hatchery, and today shellers are treated to the happy results on the shores of the bay. When I stepped onto Shell Beach, these large scallop shells were literally everywhere, in greater number than we saw elsewhere. Like a kid in a candy store, I gleefully sorted through various colors and sizes to find the perfect specimens. Among other treasures, I found a delicate pink lightning whelk—definitely worth the ferry fare over.
On the recommendation of an Instagram sheller, we decided to explore one more beach on the North Fork before our trip wrapped up. Orient Beach State Park, located on the eastern tip of the North Fork, is a beautifully developed recreation area with 45,000 feet of beachfront that stretches into the bay. Great for picnicking, fishing, kayaking, and windsurfing, the beach also draws shellers in search of bay treasures. Amidst the piles—literally piles—of slipper shells, I found a very large shark eye moon shell, as well as some pearly blue mussel shells, a few large razor clams, another pink whelk, and a handful of glistening orange jingle shells. Not bad for an hour on the beach.
Granted, there were many more beaches we left unexplored, but the treasures I found on this short excursion are enough to lure me back to the North Fork to visit those we missed.
Where to Stay
The North Fork’s largest town, Greenport, with its quaint, bucolic vibe, is more than just another New England harbor town. Good restaurants, good accommodations, and plenty of activities make this ever-burgeoning destination a win for foodies, shoppers, and sportsmen, as well as for beachcombers.
Among the most unique places to stay is the micro-resort Silver Sands (silversandsmotel.com), a stylish boutique motel that was recently renovated in 2023—reviving its reputation as an iconic Greenport institution since 1957. In addition to spacious, well-appointed motel rooms, the wooded property is dotted with several studio and one-bedroom “beach shacks” and two-bedroom ocean-view “bungalows” with screened-in porches and outside showers for those coming right off the private beach.
Don’t miss breakfast or lunch at Nookies, the on-site diner that serves up one of the best bacon-egg-and-cheese biscuits we’ve ever had. The “daily donut,” a fluffy, yeasty pillow of perfectly fried dough, is made from scratch in house each morning. Dunking it in my cappuccino sent me to breakfast heaven. Good thing they offer complimentary bicycles so guests can burn off the extra calories with a quick ride to town or even up to nearby Orient.
At night, dinner is served beachside at Eddie’s Oyster Bar. The eclectic menu serves everything from fried fish and Pipe’s Cove oysters to gourmet hot dogs, salads, and wood-fired pizzas. A selection of North Fork wines adds to the local flavor. The night we dined there, we spied cookbook author Ina Garten at a nearby table, confirming our hunch that we’d found a special spot.
When it comes to accommodations, The Silver Sands is by no means the only game in town. Across the main highway, overlooking the Long Island Sound, the Sound View Greenport (soundviewgreenport.com) is another iconic renovation garnering attention for its variety of luxury options for guests, such as suites with private saunas or hot tubs, rooms with private beachfront decks, and some that open directly onto the hotel’s private beach. For an in-town experience, check out The Menhaden (themenhaden.com). With sister properties in the Hamptons, this chic boutique hotel is popular for its spa-like bathrooms and the only hotel rooftop bar overlooking the harbor and Shelter Island.
All photos courtesy of Mary Hopkins Bailey.
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No live shelling: Be sure shells are empty and sand dollars, sea stars, and sea urchins are no longer alive before you bring them home.
This article appeared in Beachcombing Magazine Volume 46 the January/February 2025 issue.
