Destination: Block Island
By Betsy L. Haase
In a little less than an hour’s time, the ferry at Point Judith, Rhode Island, will take us to Block Island, twelve miles off the state’s coastline. Aboard, my sister Elyse and I stand on deck, hot coffees in hand, eager to see the grandes dames of Old Harbor.
On Water Street, the imposing National Hotel commands the view. Originally built in 1888 and then rebuilt in 1903 after a fire, the four-story structure boasts 46 rooms and a grand porch the length of the building. Where Water and Dodge Streets meet, The Surf at Block Island Beach House always takes my breath away. Originally built in the American Gothic Revival style in 1873, the building, with its century-plus additions, cupola, gables, and gingerbread trim, dominates the block. As the only beachfront hotel on the island, it seems to reach across the jetty to me.
Originally inhabited by the Manissean Tribe, Dutch explorer Adrian Block sailed to the island in 1614 and gave the land his name. The only town on the island, New Shoreham, was incorporated in 1672. The mid-19th century brought wealthy New England tourists and the rise of stately hotels to accommodate them. The Spring House Hotel, the first to be built in 1852, still welcomes guests today.
Our home base is The Sea Breeze, located on the bluffs of Spring Street. Built in the 1930s, the inn originally offered lodging for fishermen. Today, the renovated cottages contain 10 guest rooms. By design, there are no televisions, radios, Wi-Fi, or air conditioning.
At night, we sleep with an open window to hear the sound of ocean waves. Each morning, staff delivers a chef-prepared breakfast basket to our door. Light fills the room decorated with vintage furniture and original, contemporary art. I very much feel like Little Red Riding Hood’s grandmother in our snug cottage. We linger over biscuits and sweet breads and take our coffees to the Sea Breeze’s wildflower meadow overlooking the ocean.
We fill our days with simplicity. We stroll through the shops on Water Street. We color and write. Visiting the fall farmers’ market opens my eyes to a new possibility. There is little produce this time of year, but there is plenty of art and lots of jewelry. Beautiful beach stones are used by vendors in their displays everywhere. Ocean-tumbled, smooth and flat, they have been found along the shoreline and collected. This souvenir cannot be purchased but rather discovered. We’re off.
We head out on Corn Neck Road and park at the first beach access, with views of the Surf Hotel and an arriving ferry. We are the only beachcombers. As the tide comes in, the rock deposits make walking almost difficult. We search and tuck a few small, smooth stones into the pockets of our jean jackets and continue north.
We pass the deserted town beach. During the summer season, there are bathrooms, showers, chair and umbrella rentals, and a snack bar. All of this is shuttered. The day is beautiful as we continue our drive north. Block Island is only seven miles long and three miles wide, a total of 7,000 acres with almost half preserved open space. Houses and barns and outbuildings look much the same as they must have in the late 19th century when the island was populated by dairy and crop farmers. Everywhere we look there are kettle ponds left behind by melting glaciers. Goldenrod blooms with profusion along the rock walls and in the fields. The island is awash in their glow.
The road stops almost a mile from the North Lighthouse and Sandy Point, a rocky place where the Block Island Sound meets the Atlantic Ocean. We see seals frolic. Cairns, rough stones placed and piled up by past visitors to create small towers, almost say, “I am here.” Elyse and I add to the rock sculptures and gather a few more stones for our collection.
Later, we will spread out our beach rock finds on our beds. We don’t know their identifications—just that we like them—some speckled and glittery, some deep gray, some with a white line.
Block Island was our choice for a quiet respite that offered a stunning backdrop for our time together. The land is very surprisingly but deliberately unspoiled. Weeks later, I still feel the indelible impressions the journey left on my soul. The smooth stone that I keep in my jacket pocket reminds me.
We will be back!
Getting to Block Island
Take the Block Island Ferry from Point Judith, Rhode Island. The ride takes just under an hour. Reserve in advance at blockislandferry.com.
Approximate driving times to the ferry terminal in Point Judith from locations in Rhode Island:
- Providence: 50 minutes
- T. F. Green Airport (PVD): 35 minutes
- Kingston Amtrak Train Station (KIN): 20 minutes
All photos courtesy of Betsy L. Haase and Elyse Major. Rhode Island map by Stellar_bones/Shutterstock.com.
Learn more about the best beaches and destinations for sea and beach glass, seashells, fossils, rocks, and more beach finds around the world. Articles ›
This article appeared in Beachcombing Magazine Volume 47 March/April 2025.
